4. Strategic Placement and Installation:
At the Source: Always install extractor fans as close as possible to the source of humidity and pollutants (e.g. directly over or near the shower/bath, or above the cooker hob)
High Up: Mount fans as high as possible, ideally near the ceiling (within 400mm) to effectively capture rising moist or polluted air.
Opposite Air Ingress: Position the fan in the furthest wall, window, or ceiling from the door to ensure maximum airflow through the entire room, drawing in fresh air.
Ducting is Key:
Shortest and Straightest Route: Plan the ductwork to be as short and direct as possible to the exterior vent (through the roof or wall) Long, convoluted duct runs reduce fan efficiency and can lead to condensation inside the ducting.
Duct Size: Ensure appropriate ducting size (e.g. 100mm/4" for most bathrooms, larger for kitchens or longer runs) Larger, smooth-bore rigid ducting is generally better than flexible ducting, especially for longer runs or with bends, as it reduces resistance.
Insulate Ducting: Insulate ducting in cold spaces (like lofts) to prevent condensation from forming inside the ducts, which can lead to drips and mould.
Proper Termination: Ensure exterior vents are correctly installed and prevent air from re-entering the property. Avoid venting directly under soffits, as this can trap moist air.
Background Ventilation: To replace the extracted air and prevent negative pressure, ensure there is adequate provision for fresh air to enter the home. This can be achieved through:
Trickle vents: Small, continuously open vents usually found in window frames.
Undercut internal doors: Leaving a small gap at the bottom of internal doors allows air to move between rooms.
Internal grilles: In rooms without windows or with tightly sealed doors.
Air bricks/passive vents: In older properties, these can aid circulation.